Back on the wagon...

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Right, so I’ve used the scanner tool, these are the codes I get with the engine off, I started the engine and now only have codes 41 and 08..

What should my next mode of action be?

Thanks again for all the help you’re all giving.

Connor.
 
Did you actually clear all the codes mate? If not you should, then run the car and re scan to see what, if any, has returned. Looking like Inlet cam sensor to me.

Tony.
 
Did you actually clear all the codes mate? If not you should, then run the car and re scan to see what, if any, has returned. Looking like Inlet cam sensor to me.

Tony.
Thanks Tony,
I never thought about clearing them and then seeing if they come back! :banghead:.

Could the MAF error be related to the inlet camshaft sensor?

Thanks again.
Connor.
 
No mate two separate issues but if both come back you should check for air leaks around the rubber trunking between the MAF and the manifold.

Tony.
 
No mate two separate issues but if both come back you should check for air leaks around the rubber trunking between the MAF and the manifold.

Tony.
Thanks Tony,
I will have a good look around there. I think I may have had that changed on my 2.8, is it the U shaped ‘bellows’ part?

Connor.
 
Yes mate but check all .

Tony.
 
So I’ve checked the intake hoses (in situ) and they seem OK, the lack of light is quite a struggle. I cleared the codes and they came back with a restart so there definitely an issue with either the inlet cam sensor, MAF or one/all of the intake pipes.

I am going to order the sensor incase that’s the issue, and remove the hoses on Friday to have a good check. If they are the issue then I’ll replace, and fit the sensor as a precautionary measure!

Connor.
 
Disconnect the maf and run it without it connected to see if the problem goes. @gookah had a problem being down on power and it threw up a sensor code which didn’t cure the problem when changed. Turned out to be a knackered maf. If it runs fine with it disconnected then it’s likely to be the maf. It’s an easy test before you spend money on changing the sensor.
 
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I will try that, how do I do it? Is it straight forward?

Connor.
 
Just disconnect the electrical connection at the MAF mate, and make sure it can't get tangled in the drive belts etc.

Tony.
 
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Inlet cam senser is a known problem on many Z3s as the mileage gets nearer 100thou. Research tells not to buy cheaper ones as they don't last, oem is the way to go imo. The rubber inlet elbow has to come off to be checked properly, once off pull and stretch it at the inside and outside of the elbow as the cracks sometimes only show up under stress. Maf is easy check as @g8jka and @t-tony has told you. Good luck.

RHA, Roy.
 
I need some light to try all of these things, so hopefully I’ll get some time on Friday afternoon to try.

My idle is very good, the issue really is the slight hesitation, and the revs dropping dramatically in between gear changes, causing a stall.

A lot of the stuff online about the MAF seems to point to the car having a dodgy idle, where as mine is OK?

Connor.
 
as some of you were aware, my son kicked my ass at Santapod and I have been searching for that loss of power that has gradually gone unnoticed.
I checked the codes and I had a camshaft sensor fault (exhaust). it would not reset. I removed and cleaned it and it immediately reset only to be loaded again on the next run.
So I got a genuine BMW sensor and it cleared the code and it has never returned, however there was no difference whatsoever with the performance..... to my dismay.
So now, was it plugs, coil packs, exhaust blocking, vanos seals, any number of other sensors? I thought this was going to be an expensive chase. No codes to give me any pointers.
Anyway, it then started misfiring, again with no codes, as a last resort I unplugged the MAF. (just press the spring clip on the connector and pull it off.)
The difference was amazing. I had a car with no misfires, and pulling like a train again, best £0.00 I have ever spent.
One second hand BMW MAF later and it's all good again..

The thing is, it's a dead easy test, as the ECU goes to default settings and ignores all the signals that the MAF sends it.
Not that this may be your problem, but there is no cost in trying it first, and mine had a perfect idle..
 
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Inlet cam senser is a known problem on many Z3s as the mileage gets nearer 100thou. Research tells not to buy cheaper ones as they don't last, oem is the way to go imo. The rubber inlet elbow has to come off to be checked properly, once off pull and stretch it at the inside and outside of the elbow as the cracks sometimes only show up under stress. Maf is easy check as @g8jka and @t-tony has told you. Good luck.

RHA, Roy.


Hi mate.:)

Tony.
 
Ok so this morning I’ve removed all of the intake hoses / pipes that are connected to the maf and back into the engine. They are all fine. I refitted them as they were in good condition.

The error code was still there, so I cleared it and went on a test drive with the MAF disconnected. The problem was still present.

I had a look at the engine data using the code reader and it said MAF voltage 0.1V? Not sure what this suggests.

So the codes that are still present are 41-signal inlet camshaft sensor and 08- signal MAF sensor.

What is my next course of action? I do have a new camshaft sensor to fit, but I equally don’t want to fit if the problem won’t go away.

Is there any other locations of vacuum leaks? As when I press the accelerator pedal with the Bonnet up I hear a sucking / intake sound and a slight delay.

Thanks in advance..

Connor.
 
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