Z3 2.8 not starting (doesn’t turn the crank either) EWS? Any assistance gratefully received

[Pingu]

Sounds like your keys are OK. I agree with one of the bullet points in the #6 post, and suspect the EWS (possibly the starter relay).

As the post says, make sure that you disconnect the EWS cable before jumping pins 7 & 8. When you jump pins 7 & 8 it will confirm that you refitted the starter motor correctly.

I did think about jumping it with the key in the Ign position and the EWS connected, but then considered "what if it is not the starter relay". You would be bypassing just one of the EWS "start/no start" things. - not a good idea.

 

[Newtricks]

I hope I have refitted the starter correctly…….

 

[Pingu]

I hope I have refitted the starter correctly…….

I hope you haven't. It will be much easier to sort than a problem with the EWS.

 

[KiNG]

I had the same problem on my m54 e85. Are you sure the starter isn't the problem? I was the same. Parked up, car seemed fine. Battery had lots of charge but wouldn't crank, turned the key and just nothing. Do you or a friend have AA or other breakdown service? Worth getting them to have a poke around (since it'll be free). It's what I did to confirm it was definitely the starter.

I hope I have refitted the starter correctly…….

Was it a new unit? If used, it could also be knackered?

 

[Newtricks]

Hi @KiNG I did suspect the starter, so I had it refurbed (it now has a 12 month guarantee), I refitted it and the inlet manifold the previous weekend to no effect. Whilst I’m reasonably sure I refitted it correctly (I’d photographed liberally to ensure I put it all back to where it had been), at present I aren’t ruling anything out. I’ll complete the investigation into DME, EWS and the lock actuator (if nothing else it’s all new to me and a learning curve).

 

[KiNG]

Hi @KiNG I did suspect the starter, so I had it refurbed (it now has a 12 month guarantee), I refitted it and the inlet manifold the previous weekend to no effect. Whilst I’m reasonably sure I refitted it correctly (I’d photographed liberally to ensure I put it all back to where it had been), at present I aren’t ruling anything out. I’ll complete the investigation into DME, EWS and the lock actuator (if nothing else it’s all new to me and a learning curve).

How about bench testing it, to rule it out? Assuming it works, then like you said maybe wiring issue?

 

[Newtricks]

When I collected it they demonstrated it running. When I refitted it I checked the cable connections were all good. I’ll rule out DME/EWS first as I’ve started that process (my limiting factor is the weather at the moment), and if it proves not to be that I can at least get those components and trim back in one piece before embarking on something else. Whilst I aren’t in any rush nor under pressure to complete it all, I had hoped to have a good MOT and be on with sorting the cosmetic paintwork issues.

 

[IanA]

Hi NT- any further progress?
Lots of breath being held here to know what the answer is !!!

 

[Newtricks]

Ah, I’ve started the diagnostics that @NZ00Z3 kindly supplied (started with the DME) - I’m going to repeat it, but I’m pretty sure that bit checked out OK, I need to carve out enough time to work through it rather than piecemeal that I’m stuck with at the moment. I’m short of time this close to Christmas, and have been thinking I’d be better off picking it back up in the New Year (weather permitting - which is the other issue at the moment. Don’t worry about updates - everyone on the forum will be the first to hear when I get it sorted - it’s only fair after all the tremendous help that members provide.

 

[IanA]

Great- thanks and good luck...

 

[Unreal]

Ah, I’ve started the diagnostics that @NZ00Z3 kindly supplied (started with the DME) - I’m going to repeat it, but I’m pretty sure that bit checked out OK, I need to carve out enough time to work through it rather than piecemeal that I’m stuck with at the moment. I’m short of time this close to Christmas, and have been thinking I’d be better off picking it back up in the New Year (weather permitting - which is the other issue at the moment. Don’t worry about updates - everyone on the forum will be the first to hear when I get it sorted - it’s only fair after all the tremendous help that members provide.

So hopefully you're mobile now. What was the cause of the problem?

 

[Newtricks]

No. To explain, I’ve no workshop space, so I’m working outside. After clearing other tasks I’m back at it this weekend (before it throws it down again) - l was discussing it yesterday with an acquaintance who is an Alarm engineer. As soon as I make progress (or not) I will post it here.

 

[Newtricks]

Minor hiatus on working on the Z3; now back at it and grateful for decent weather.
Following the diagnostics kindly provided by @NZ00Z3 I can now confirm;
The starter has 12V to the big cable
Of the cube of 5 fuses in the DME enclosure 4 have 12V, 1 (a 30amp) has 0V (but the fuse is good - I’ve swapped them round to check) I’m currently trying to determine what that fuse is for.

Just to check before I start taking the dash apart needlessly, to unplug the EWS connector I do need to take the lower dash panel off?

Correction to the above, the 30amp fuse with no voltage is a spare holder (no terminals); so the fuse cube has 12V to all of them.

 

[Newtricks]

Right, problem finally resolved. I do-opted my wife (IT professional) in attempting to find a copy of INPA or newer diagnostic software. A lot of the Torrent sites have been closed down, and any remaining didn’t look great from a cyber security threat point of view, so I bit the bullet and got a mobile diagnostic technician to take a look - he found a corruption in the CAS module (I think that’s what he called it - part of EWS?) which he updated to the latest version available. He also found that the earth lead from the engine to chassis was in very poor condition (a more common problem on some French cars apparently) and replaced it with a pure copper one - I suspect this was more the likely cause of non-starting, and I ought to have at least crossed it off a check list (particularly as in my callow youth I had the same issue with an old mini….twice bitten and all that). Incredibly long story short it now starts and runs fine. This particular saga is now closed. Thanks again to everyone for their support and advice.

 

[IanA]

Good news. Always great to hear about the resolution(s) to problems.

 

[t-tony]

Whenever I come across a vehicle not cranking but having a fully charged battery the first thing I always do is connected a heavy duty jump lead between the battery earth terminal and a good earth point on the vehicle chassis. This eliminates a rotted earth cable from engine to vehicle chassis/body. I had the same issue on my VW Touareg a few years ago.

Tony.

 

[VioletAlexandriaMiller]

Something you could try that I had to do with that 2.8i I test drove yesterday : start from the default key-in position, and veeeerrrrrrry ssssssllllloooooowlllllyyyyy turn the key forward. For whatever reason that was something I had to do to get it to start, and it's something you could try. IDK

 

[Newtricks]

Good to know.
I’d heard of a key sync’ing problem, I was pretty confident it wasn’t a problem with a key (I’ve 3, but they were all doing the same, and some of the diagnostics ruled out the aerial around the ignition switch).

 

[BigMcNuggets]

Ok I just solved my no crank no start problem, I came across this post and used it to help diagnose my situation so I thought Id share my story in case it can help someone else in the future.

My trunk had a leak I didnt know about and there was a big storm a few weeks ago that filled up the trunk all the way to the battery terminals. I drained the trunk but afterwards my car wouldnt start or even try to crank.

I assumed the water must have caused the issue, so I probed around looking for corrosion, I didnt find anything too bad but I took a wire brush and cleaned up the ground posts and the positive cable and the fusible link anyways. Still no crank.

I tested the battery, the battery was fine. I took some intake parts off to get access to the starter motor, my multimeter showed 12V on the positive cable post, I used a screwdriver to connect it to the solenoid, it worked, I connected the part that activates the motor, that worked, so I moved on to diagnosing the EWS.

I checked the clutch safety switch with my multimeter and it worked, and my brake lights came on when I pressed the brake pedal so I assumed that worked. I saw the post mentioning the DME fuses, all of 4 had 12V with the key in the “on” position but not cranked, 5th was a spare, so DME worked but something wasnt happening that needed to happen between the “on” position and the crank position.

I was afraid the key was somehow deactivated, but I didnt want to buy a new key until I was sure. At that point I kind of had a hail mary idea and thought f it, it cant hurt to try. I considered that maybe the transponder inside the battery wasnt as strong as it used to be or that the key ring transponder that sends the signal to the key wasnt as strong as it used to be, so I took off the plastic shroud on the key to expose the transponder in hopes that would help everything communicate. With literally zero expectations of success I turned the key to crank, and it worked! I literally still cant believe that actually worked! I have no clue what even compelled me to try that, because this problem seems completely unrelated to the trunk water and an incredible coincidence to have happen at the same time.

Thanks to everyone who spent their time commenting in here, it was really helpful, I wouldve never arrived at this point without everyone in this post contributing their insight and documenting the process!

 

[Delk]

This is going back quiet a few years but my EWS with the ECU. If I remember correctly it would turn over at the time but not start. The starter would work fine but the ECU would not trigger the injectors so the enigne wouldnt start.